I crocheted this beanie for my husband due to his official trip this month. It must be chilly during the winter so I choose Cable Stitch to create a chunky textured hat. It took me almost 2 weeks to get it done before I almost gave up!
I had been crocheting for almost two years but had never been deal with this Cable Stitch, so it was a really great achievement for the first time trial yeaay! Thanks to Little Monkeys Designs channel for the very easy and clear tutorial of the Cable Stitch Crochet.
I had no plan to write the pattern until I decided to post it to a crochet group where some members then asked me for pattern. The good news is here I gladly write the pattern for all of them, and the bad one is it is definitely just "written pattern" no step by step picture. Sorry for that but I will try to do my best!
Materials:
5.00 mm or 8/0 crochet hook
Worsted weight Cotton Acrylic Yarn in 2 different colours
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Size:
Head circumference 54 cm
(Adult size)
Gauge:
4 rows & 6 stitches in DC = 4 cm
Tutorial:
Cable Stitch Crochet tutorial availabe HERE
Abreviations:
CH - Chain
SS - Slip Stitch
SC - Single Crochet
SC2tog - Single Crochet 2 Together
SC13tog - Single Crochet 13 Together
HDC - Half Double Crochet
DC - Double Crochet
TRC - Treble Crochet
DTRC - Double Treble Crochet
FPDC - Front Post Double Crochet
BPDC - Back Post Double Crochet
FPTRC - Front Post Treble Crochet
FPDTRC - Front Post Double Treble Crochet
Notes:
1. This hat is crochet from the bottom to top.
2. Foundation chain must be multiple of 11 (9 chains for 9 cable strands, 2 chains for space between two cables).
3. This pattern using American Crochet Terms.
4. You may sell your finished item made from this pattern but please do not re-share or claim my pattern as your own. If you would like to share please directly share the link of this post.
Tips:
This pattern may applicable for any size as long as you apply these instructions,
1. Determine the head circumference.
2. Make foundation of 11 or 8 (Toddler size) chains, and it has to be as long as or close to the head circumference. One or two chains longer or shorter is acceptable. It can be adjusted by crocheting a little bit tightly or loosely / decreasing or increasing the gauge.
Lets Start!
BRIM
Chain 88, SS to the initial chain, do not twist the chain.
Row 1: CH2, DC in the same stitch, DC in each of the next stitch, SS to the first DC. (88)
Row 2: CH2, *FPDC to the first DC, BPDC to the next stitch**, repeat from * to ** all around, SS to the first FPDC. (88)
Row 3-5: Repeat row 2. (88)
BODY
Special note: I highly recommend you to learn this VIDEO before starting this section. It will teach you very quickly to master Cable Stitch Crochet!
Row 6: CH2, *FPDC in each of the next 9 stitches, DC in each of the next 2 stitches**, repeat *to** all around, SS to first FPDC. (88)
Special note: FPDC in this row will be numbered as 1st to 9th in row from the beginning of the row.
Row 7: CH2, *skip the 1st, to 3rd stitches, FPDTRC to the 4th to 6th stitches, FPDTRC to the 1st to 3rd stitches, FPTRC to the 7th to 9th stitches, SC in each of the next 2 stitches**, repeat from *to** all around, SS to the first FPDTRC. (88)
Row 8: CH2, HDC in the same stitch, HDC in each of the next stitches, all around, SS to the first HDC. (88)
Row 9: CH2, *FPTRC to the 1st to 3rd FPDTRC of row 7, skip 4th to 6th stitches of row 7, FPDTRC to 7th to 9th stitches of row 7, FPDTRC to the first 4th to 6th stitches of row 7 (do it backside), SC to the next 2 HDC of row 8, SS to the first FPTRC. (88)
Row 10: Repeat row 8.
Row 11-14: Repeat row 7-10.
Row 15-18: Repeat row 7-10.
I add 2 more rows (same as row 7-8) to make the beanie higher, but 18 rows is already quite enough.
PEAK
This is the decreasing section. We decrease 2 strands into 1 in each row. Decreasing point is underlined.
Special note: I don't use any pattern or tutorial in this section but I think this VIDEO will be helpful.
Row 19: CH2, *FPDTRC to the 4th to 6th stitches of row 17, FPDTRC to the 1st to 3rd stitches of row 17, FPTRC together the 7th and 8th stitches of row 17, FPTRC the 9th stitch of row 17, SC to the next 2 HDC stitches of row 18**, repeat *to** all around, SS to the first FPDTRC. Now the cable consist of 8 strands. (80)
Row 20: Repeat row 8.
Row 21: CH2, *FPTRC to the 1th to 3rd stitch, FPDTRC the 7th to 8th stitches of row 19, (do it trough backside) FPDTRC to the 4th stitch, FPDTRC together the 5th to 6th stitches of row 19, SC to the next 2 HDC stitches of row 20**, repeat from *to** all around, SS to the first FPTRC. Now the cable consist of 7 strands. (72)
Row 22: Repeat row 8
Row 23: CH2, *FPDTRC to 4th to 5th stitches, FPDTRC to the 1st stitch of row 21, FPDTRC together the 2nd and the 3rd stitches of row 21, FPTRC to the 6th to 7th, SC in each of the next 2 stitches**, repeat *to** all around, SS to the first FPDTRC. Now the cable has 6 strands left over. (64)
Row 24: Repeat row 8.
Row 25: CH2, *FPTRC together the 1st and the 2nd stitches of row 23, FPDTRC in each of the 5th and 6th stitches of row 23, (do it through backside) FPDTRC in each of the 3rd and 4th stitches of row 23, SC in each of the next 2 HDC stitches of row 24**, repeat from *to** all around, SS to the first FPTRC. There are 5 cable strands left over. (56)
Row 26: repeat row 8. (56)
Row 27: CH2, *FPDTRC together the 2nd and 3rd stitches of row 25, FPDTRC to the 1st stitch of row 25, FPTRC in each of 4th and 5th stitches of row 25, SC in each of the next 2 HDC stitches of row 26**, repeat *to** all around, SS to the first FPDTRC. There are 4 strands left over. (48)
Row 28: Repeat row 8. (48)
Row 29: CH2, *FPTRC the 1st stitch of row 27, FPDTRC together the 3rd and the 4th stitches of row 27, (do it through backside) FPDTRC the 2nd stitch of row 27, SC in each of the next 2 HDC stitches of row 28, SS to the first FPTRC. There 3 strands left over. (40)
Row 30: Repeat row 8. (40)
Row 31: CH2, *FPDC the 1st stitch of row 29, FPTRC together the 2nd and the 3rd stitches of row 29, SC in each of the next 2 HDC stitches of row 30**, repeat *to** all around, SS to the first FPDC. There are 2 strands left over. (32)
Row 32: Repeat row 8. (32)
Row 33: CH2, *FPDC together the 1st and the 2nd stitches of row 31, SC2tog the next 2 HDC stitches of row 32**, repeat *to** all around, SS to the first FPDC. (24)
Row 34: CH1, SC2tog in each of the next 2 stitches all around, SS to the first SC. (12)
Row 35: CH1, SC13tog
Cut off the yarn weave in ends.
I hope this pattern will be useful for you to create this classic beanie! Thanks for stopping by have fun with the pattern!
Keep in touch by following my
thank you!
❤❤❤
Do you count the chain 2 as the first double crochet?
BalasHapusHi tracy, CH2 in the beggining doesnt count as first DC.
HapusKomentar ini telah dihapus oleh pengarang.
HapusIs this English or American version?
BalasHapusI used american terms
HapusIf I was to do a toddler size how many rows do you suggest?
BalasHapusHi tanya, u can use the pattern but change the size of the yarn and crochet. I hope I can make another size for the pattern..
HapusHi, Im'm new to this, what does the 88 means ? I don't know how many chains I need to start with for an adult men size..
BalasHapusHi vanessa sorry for just replaying ur comment. 88 means the initial chain u have to make in the beginning, I made that for my husband so I think you can just follow my pattern. But if you want ur own size, I suggest u to: 1. Measure the head circumference. 2. Create the initial chains as long as the head circumference. Those chains must be multiple of 11. For example, the head circumference is 54 cm, and you need 90 chains to reach 54 cm, you can just use 88 chains but you have to crochet loosely or you can also use a little bigger yarn. Hope it helps. :)
HapusIf this is american...I'm confused as the brim does not look like it has 5 rows of double crochets
BalasHapusHello joyce, I made that in 5 rows of front post and back post double crochet. In my humble opinion, since they were in post stitches then they looked shorter. :)
HapusHow can I convert this for a two year old?
BalasHapusHi.. I think it will be too confusing to change the number of the stitches since I made it only in one size, but I suggest you to use sport or baby weight yarn with 4.00 mm or 3.50 mm crochet hook and just follow the pattern. Hope it helps.. :)
HapusLooks great! How manny yards did you end up using? For the body?
BalasHapusI used 4 skeins (125m/skein) for the body. So it s about 550 yds and just 1 skein (125m) for the brim and pompom but it s better to prepare 250 m ao you can make a good pom pom,,
HapusHi. What does do this backside in row 9 mean? Thank you.
BalasHapushi amanda,i suggest u to watch the video tutorial of cable stitch, just click on the word "VIDEO" in BODY instruction and pay attention to minute 7:10. My english isnt very good so I worry that u wont understand if I explain it in sentences.
BalasHapusIt is very, very helpful to watch the video!
BalasHapusI was under the impression that treble crochet and double crochet are the same thing. Both of those stitches are used in this pattern, so needless to say I am very confused
BalasHapushi Alicia thanks for stopping by. No Double and treble are different. In this pattern I used, DOUBLE, TREBLE, and DOUBLE TREBLE. DOUBLE only use in row 6. for the next row and up, I alternately use TREBLE and DOUBLE TREBLE.
BalasHapusin DOUBLE you yarn over once, and pull the yarn twice, TREBLE you yarn over twice and pull out the yarn 3 times, but in DOUBLE TREBLE you yarn over 3 times and pull out the yarn 4 times.
In row 6 we use DOUBLE TREBLE because we have to start the row from 4th-6th stitches, so we have to skip 3 previous stitches and we need longer stitch to reach the point, that's why we use DOUBLE TREBLE.
In row 9, we use TREBLE because we sart the row from 1st-3rd stitches, no stitches need to be skipped so we dont need longer stitch to reach the point. Thats why we use TREBLE.
Hope it helps, and I recommend you to watch the video in the BODY section.
Thank you for the clarification. I very much appreciate it because I was extremely confused like I said. Now I can complete this awesome pattern with confidence. Thank you so much for responding so quickly. Most of the time when I comment on something I don't get an answer back so I was very surprised to see your response. Have a great weekend. Bright blessings
BalasHapusHello!in row 11 we repeat row 7.so we do fpdtr on the hdc of row 10 or on fpdtr of row 9?thank you!
BalasHapusunknown, row 11 you do fpdtr on fpdtr stches of row 9, then for row 15 you do fpdtr to stitches in row 13
BalasHapusDoc Misty so it means you do FRONT POST stitch by moving your hook behind the 3 prev stitches. please watch the video from min 7.10 :)
BalasHapusHi! I'm finishing up my hat (great pattern!) and I think you miscounted some stitches toward the end. I believe there should be 56 in row 25 and continue with the decreases from there.
BalasHapusThanks for correction!
HapusHello I absolutely love this pattern , first try and converted it into a 6 month old hat , thanks for this great pattern
BalasHapusyou are most welcome!
HapusAm I the only one encountering confusion on the decrease rows? Beginning with row 25 the final count appears to be off by 2... if each decrease row removes 8 stitches, then should the final count in row 25 not be 56 instead of 58? Perhaps it's just a typo that then carries through to the end of the pattern, but it seems to be throwing me off in the final few rows. No matter how many times I try I can't get the top of the hat to look right 😩 I can only assume it really is just me since no one else has mentioned it, but I've already finished and then frogged at least four times, any clarification or elaboration would be greatly appreciated!
BalasHapushi alexandra..
HapusSorry for the error, final stitch of row 25 it should be 56 which is the same as your count. Thank you for correction and sorry for the frogging.. I will correct it..
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